Chapel Of Bones, Evora: Is It Worth It?

Where Is Évora’s Chapel Of Bones

The Chapel of Bones in Évora is just on the outer limits of the city centre, within the city walls but it could very easily be missed. If you happen to stumble upon the Évora public gardens then just over the road is where you’ll find the Chapel of Bones.

 To make it easier, here is a Google Pin for it, and below is a map along with some of the other great things to do while you’re there. The Chapel of Bones is #1 on the map. There’s even a pin for recommended parking for those of you driving your own.

Can You Visit The Chapel Of Bones in Évora From Porto?

Évora is around 4 hours one way from Porto and while we have made the trip from Nazare (a 3 hours drive) many people would consider Évora to be a bad choice as a day trip from Porto, however, if you were planning a road trip from Porto to Lisbon, you could definitely tack it on as a detour.

History Of The Chapel Of Bones In Évora

I have a morbid curiosity for things like this, and after learning about the Chapel of Bones in Évora I was eager to find out if they were built for the same depressing reasons as the Paris Catacombs.

Turns out, the story behind them isn’t quite as sad as you’d think.

This beautifully weird Chapel was decorated with bones in the 16th Century (two centuries before the Paris Catacombs!) by Franciscan monks in an attempt to remind the locals how fragile life is and that death ultimately comes for us all.

All these years later and I’d say it’s still doing exactly that.

Notice I said decorated in bones? That’s because the Chapel is located inside the former Fransician Monastery. So it isn’t exactly built with bones but when you stand inside it certainly feels that way.

The Chapel Of Bones Entrance Fee & Times

I was expecting the Chapel of Bones to be a tourist hot spot, it’s the number one activity in any Évora Itinerary so I was really surprised to find the place almost empty each time we’ve visited (yes, we’ve been multiple times!) Having said that, I imagine the peak summer season will see an increase in group tours. 

General admission is €6 with discounted tickets for under 25’s and over 65’s. Children under 12 go free, so it really is a budget friendly activity. 

Although I will say, while I personally don’t see an issue with kids visiting this chapel, it does showcase real human remains & mummies which I understand some people might not find child-friendly.

Summer opening hours are from 9am to 6:30pm. In the winter, the last entry is at 5pm.

How Long Do You Need For The Chapel Of Bones, Évora?

This really depends on how long you want to spend looking at bones and all of the intricate details of the chapel.

The room is only small but I think we spend about 30 minutes inside the Chapel itself. Like I said, I have a morbid curiosity for things like this. 

After seeing the Chapel there are various other rooms to explore that showcase a more light hearted look at the area’s history and religion so all in all, I think an hour is more than enough time to set aside for the Chapel of Bones in Évora.

Our Experience At The Chapel Of Bones, Évora

Évora wasn’t really on our radar until my mother-in-law told us about the Chapel of Bones, then it soon shot to the top of the list.

It didn’t disappoint.

The macabre experience started as soon as we bought our tickets and made our way to the entrance where, above the door, we found latin text that translates to: “We the bones that are, here we wait for yours”…

This was when I knew then that this Chapel was going to be something else entirely.

Stepping through the doorway, we were instantly greeted by the eerie sight of thousands of human remains. Specifically, skulls. 

My skin turned cold, a heavy cloud of sadness descended on me.

I couldn’t help but wonder who these people were. What were their stories? How did they live? How did they die?

These are details lost to the archives of history but one thing became obvious while I stood in the middle of this cold, heavy, room and that was how much time had gone into it.

My biggest tip when you visit is to remind yourself that this display might feel morbid or obscure in this century, but back then it was fairly normal. Death was a part of everyday life and not a taboo like it is today.

The writing over the door was meant to inspire, not scare. In fact, the Chapel of Bones in Évora was often used as a space for prayer and meditation in the 17th Century.

Frozen in awe, I took a moment to admire what I was surrounded by. Columns and walls completely decorated in bones, and intricately painted ceiling with, you guessed it, skulls as edging. It really was thought provoking.

To the right of the Chapel lies two human mummies on display. Once thought to be father and son, cursed to never see heaven or earth because they treated their mother badly.

Up to around 2001, these mummies were displayed in their original location, hanging lifeless on the wall. I’m glad they’ve changed this now.

It’s also since been proven that both bodies are females with no family ties. Regardless of their story, they serve as yet another reminder that life is fragile and death is guaranteed.

The poem on their sign reads:

The fleshless skulls
They are my company,
I bring them night and day
Depicted in my memory;
Many were respected
In the world for their talents,
And others vain ornaments,
Who served vanity,
And it may… in eternity
Be the cause of their torments.

And that’s not the only prayer that leaves pause for thought. There’s also this sonnet at the entrance which I think played a part in why I spent so long just standing, thinking:

Where are you going in such a hurry, traveller?
Stop… do not proceed any further;
You have no greater concern,
Then this one: that on which you focus your sight.

Recall how many have passed from this world,
Reflect on your similar end,
There is good reason to reflect
If only all did the same.

Ponder, you so influenced by fate,
Among the many concerns of the world,
So little do you reflect on death;
If by chance you glance at this place,
Stop… For the sake of your journey,
The more you pause, the more you will progress.

At the back of the Chapel of Bones is a highly detailed gold altar with a statue of Jesus on the cross. In front of this, is the tomb of Bishop Jacinto Carlos da Silveira, who died in 1808 when Napoleon’s French army invaded. This is the only named body in the whole Chapel.

There’s also a marble coffin that contains the remains of the three monks who established the original church and monastery in the 13th century.

Everyone else? Their names have been long forgotten.

After around 30 minutes, I decided I needed a break from the heavy energy of the Chapel of bones so we headed to the other display rooms.

There’s several displays, from religious art and collections from the area, a huge nativity display collection and a full scale model of what was proposed to be the altar design for the Chapel of Bones. The finished piece looks very different to this model so it’s nice they have included this as a museum piece.

These rooms aren’t really that interesting, not to me at least, but I do think they balance your visit to what is a very hard hitting room.

How To Get To Évora

If you decide you want to visit the Chapel of Bones in Évora, The best option for visiting, especially if you’re wanting a longer stay, is to drive or hire a car from Lisbon but we understand that’s not an option for everyone so here’s a few alternative on how to get to Évora:

Bus

Getting to Évora by bus is fairly easy from the main Sete Rio station in Lisbon. They run frequently almost every hour, take roughly 1.5 hours and cost anywhere from €5-15 depending on the time of day. The bus station in Évora is next to the castle walls so it’ll be clear which direction to head once you get off the bus. We’ve used this website in the past to book bus tickets around Portugal.

Train

Once again departs from the Sete Rio station. However, the train option isn’t necessarily an easy option as they appear to be a little less frequent than buses, require a transfer and take the same if not more time than the bus. Strikes are common at the moment too so it wouldn’t be an option we would choose. If you did want to try the trains though, it’ll cost you around €13 and land you a little further from the old city walls.

Tour

If you enjoy group tours, there are plenty of bus tours from Lisbon to Évora of all sizes and durations. 

Final Thoughts, Is The Chapel Of Bones Worth It?

You won’t be surprised to hear that we think they absolutely are worth a visit. The Chapel of Bones in Évora is one of the most unique, but also most important, religious buildings in the area but even if you’re not religious there’s certainly value in visiting it.

All in all, Évora and its Chapel of Bones should be added to your Portugal road trip itinerary and if you liked this post, you might also want to check out our guide to another unique historic hidden gem in Portugal!

Are you intrigued by off-the-beaten-path destinations with rich historical significance? Consider adding Evora and its Chapel of Bones to your Portugal itinerary for a truly unique experience. We’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences if you decide to visit!